A Flying Nightmare

Well here I am sitting in Hong Kong International Airport when I thought I'd be over the North Pole and halfway home. What a nightmare. The flight to Hong Kong was fine, and then I bid farewell to the rest of our group, whose flight left without any problems. It was odd, after being constantly surrounded by the same sixteen people for two weeks, I am utterly alone.

Then began the delays. First an hour. Then a second. Then a third. Finally, they cancelled the flight due to some maintenance issues. This wouldn't have sucked quite as much if I were at least with my friends and I hadn't only gotten 2 hours of sleep because of the early flight... But at least there's a really nice Indian woman who has kind of joined me and makes me feel less sad. I'm all about those silver linings!

Anyway, the airport staff here has been super confusing and sent our whole flight on a wild goose chase around the airport to get our accommodations. We even got on bus to the hotel that left, drove around the airport, and then pulled back in before we were told we needed to reenter and pick up the vouchers. I'm currently waiting for a bus (it's late. Yay.) to take me to the hotel where I'm going to pass out. Also, I'm totally kicking myself because on the way to Vietnam I packed extra clothes... But of course I thought I could get by without the extra weight for my trip back when I really need it.

When I recall this trip I'll definitely try to forget this part. It has been such a hassle. I can only hope that tomorrow will go smoothly. Wish me luck!

The End is Nigh

Well it's here: my last day in Vietnam. I've enjoyed my time here so much--it has been one of the greatest experiences of my life! And guess what? I'm actually going to add in some pictures to my blog today. Aren't you just so lucky?

First thing in the morning we went to the UEF sports complex to compete with the UEF students. Previously, I was under the impression that we were going to be playing our friends (D, Julie, etc.) but I quickly realized we were playing the actual TEAM of the university. Safe to say we expected to be pummeled. Anyway, first Julie led a "flash mob" (I put this in quotes because it was more of a choreographed and expected performance) and we were encouraged to join in. Which I did for about half a second. It was really funny because our guide Tin Tin was really into it and very excited. He kept trying to drag me and the girls in to join the students in dancing.

After the dance medley, the games began. Soccer was fine, we lost to the UEF students, but the girls won their game. I even scored a goal... which is really surprising considering I'm me. We did better at basketball because our sheer physical dominance. I'm like above-average-ish height in America, but I was same height as the whole UEF basketball team. Seth and Garrett (our tallest guys) were just dominating.

This afternoon I stopped by the Mariamman Temple (it's one of three Hindu temples in HCMC). It was really interesting to see how practicing Hinduism is different across populations--the colors and depictions of the gods were very different from what I'm used to at home/in South India. I've never been particularly religious or spiritual, but the temple did feel like a home away from home. It's always there for me, which is comforting. We also walked by a beautiful park with lots of stone sculptures. There were three guys practicing on their flutes; the added musical ambience made it such a serene and perfect situation.

Tonight we had our farewell dinner on a boat that did a small tour along the Saigon River. The view of the HCMC skyline was breathtaking... unfortunately my phone died. I'll have to get a picture from someone else. It was a great way to end the trip. I have to be up in two hours to go to the airport... Ugh.

The Penultimate Day

Anti-China sentiments are starting to boil over in Ho Chi Minh today--we got an alert from the US State Dept to avoid any (even peaceful) demonstrations. This threw a sort of wrench in a few of our plans. We were to visit another industrial park today and an on-site noodle factory, but the entrance was clogged by protestors mobbing the Chinese-backed factories of the park. This allowed us to have the afternoon off... but I wanted to visit the Reunification Palace and go inside Notre Dame and these were key places where people were most likely to gather. In our third and final culture lecture, the professor was very profuse in denouncing China's actions and displaying the strong nationalism shared by basically all the Vietnamese.

It was our last day at UEF--I've really enjoyed hanging out with the students inside and outside of class. We have our final meeting tomorrow on the soccer field! Ms. Tuyet had more group games for us today... This time we actually had to spell phrases out, which was super hard because the accents, dots, and vowels with symbols are really hard to remember. There are 12 vowels and 5 tones in Vietnamese (each with its own symbol) as opposed to English's 5 vowels. It's tough. But language class overall was very fun!

Since it's super hot, after lunch we got some ice cream. We also did some last minute souvenir shopping at Ben Thanh Market. I'm so sad to be leaving so soon. I'm not prepared to go back to real life...

Another Perspective

First thing in the morning today we headed to the Saigon Newport Corporation (SNP) shipyard, located just outside of HCMC on the banks of the Nhà Bè River. I wasn't very interested in the workings of the shipyard, but it was interesting to hear our hosts views of the TPP and the rising tensions between Vietnam and China. The huge cranes that move the cargo crates around amaze me. They're just huge hunks of metal that move fluidly and constantly. Also I was completely exhausted... I'm going to sleep for like 15 hours straight when I get back. Sleep has been kind of a low priority here, there's just so much fun stuff to do!

For the first time, we had lunch at the hotel and it was great. I avoided the insects, I wasn't feeling quite adventurous to try them and no one gave rave reviews. However, I had so many spring rolls... they were so delicious and reminded me of my mom a lot (she loves them). I did try the snail, but it was quite bland. Kind of put myself in a food coma. Napped. It was wondrous.

The group spent the afternoon at the War Remnants Museum (formerly known as the [1975] Exhibition House of US and Puppet Crimes and [1990] Exhibition House for Crimes of War and Aggression). Wow. What can I say. A follow up to the Cu Chi tunnels, it was a hard thing to experience. The courtyard is filled with US military tanks, missile launchers, helicopters, and planes captured during the war. On a side note, weapons are an insane feat of engineering--the descriptions of those machines (way out of date now) were bone-chilling when I realized how much havoc the could and did wreak). The first floor was full of anti-Vietnam War propaganda from other communist nations from the 60s. There was also some accompanying information about the defeat of the French prior to the American invasion/involvement (however you want to characterize it).

The second floor was by far the toughest exhibition to stomach. The first room covered the general damage done by bombs, etc. and the photographers who lost their lives trying to communicate what was occurring, good and bad. The second exhibit displayed the horrors of napalm and agent orange. It was horrific and I hated being there, but I forced myself to look at the terribly disfigured bodies and lives on the walls... I was comparing it to the Holocaust with one of my friends, but that it is so easy to blame and hate someone else (the Nazis). When I know that it was American soldiers performing these horrific acts (torture, massacre, etc.), it makes me sick. The capture of treatment of American POW's was notable absent. It is such a testament to the Vietnamese people that they do not hold an unforgettable grudge against the American people--how can hate NOT stem from such careless slaughtering of their country and countrymen? Their forgiveness is so overwhelming.

I leave you with a poem written by an American photographer whose helicopter was shot down near Da Nang, Vietnam, while he was documenting the war:

On the Side That's Winning

The moon hangs like a tear

And I, sensing immortality

But afraid of tomorrow, rush to greet it

Afraid to die

And keep running,

Afraid to realize it may be hopeless

To carry tears on my sleeve

While right behind me, in cloak and gown

The man's juggling bombs

Like a circus clown

...Though the bells toll

They can bomb the land

But not my soul.

-- Oliver Noonan (1939-1969)

Today I Murdered A Shrimp

Today was a short day: spent the morning at UEF and then had the afternoon off. We had our second culture lecture--it was over the religion and dress of the different ethnic groups of Vietnam. I love this professor. He lectured about this religion that originates in South Vietnam called caodaism, which unites believers of all the major faiths to be spiritual together. I thought it was a very interesting concept and definitely want to learn more!

After, we had another language class where we played games. They were kind of ridiculous and included me tackling someone to but a slip of paper in a box. All's fair in love and war! Anyway, per usual, my team won. Classic. I think the majority of us are getting to a state of better-than-terrible when it comes to our ability to communicate basic phrases in Vietnamese. It's really cool, because unlike other countries (*cough* France) the people here really appreciate it when you try to speak their language, even if you end up conversing in English. Just one more way they're super accepting.

We had the afternoon off, so some of us headed to tour some of the vestiges of French colonialism. Unfortunately, Notre Dame was closed, but it was still beautiful to see the outside. It's placement is so odd because it is literally at the convergence of a bunch of streets: There is only a curb around the walls of the cathedral. Kitty-corner-ish to the church is the former post office. The architecture is very intricate and VERY French on the inside and out. They have converted the old phone booths to ATM's inside, which I thought was cute. I'm really sorry I keep saying I'll post pictures and never do... it will happen... at some point.

The old French post office

I also hung out in the nearby park... the rains have made the evenings much breezier and cooler. The foliage is so pretty amidst the hustle and bustle of the city, a lot like a mini-Central Park, except these small enclaves of nature are all around. For dinner, we went to a DIY rooftop grill. All hesitance with regards to meat have been thrown out the door here... everything is tasty mystery meat. It was a bit unnerving to place my live, skewered shrimp on the grill and watch it squirm until the life drained out of it with its beady eyes still looking at me. Was that too graphic? The view from the restaurant was breathtaking--we were among all the skyscrapers of downtown HCMC and a lot of heat lightning.

Things I need to do when I get back:

• Watch Apocalypse Now
• Learn how to make pho/some other easy Vietnamese dishes
• Not throw up when I return to the rich American food... seriously, I have barely had any form of dairy in the past 1.5 weeks
• Forget this song forever

Visiting the Buddha

We had language class at a satellite campus of UEF today that was much closer to our hotel. Ms. Tuyet helped us learn how to bargain in Vietnamese--except my skills at bargaining are sub-par even in English. Then we headed to Ben Thanh market to practice! It reminded me a lot of the market I went to in Quito last summer, but more people spoke English. Which was nice, because last time I knew enough Spanish to get by. There was so much there!! Fish, crabs, clothes, trinkets, etc. I'm hoping to go back on Friday; I wanted to buy a sarong, but couldn't find one. Sad panda. Also I hope it's a bit cooler when I go back because I was sweating buckets yesterday afternoon.

After the market, we visited the Xa Loi Pagoda (Temple of the Buddha's Relic). It was taken over by the government during the war, but is famous for being the home of the eight monks who lit themselves on fire to protest the suppression of religious rights. In addition to a shrine to those martyrs, there was a large hall with a huge Buddhist statue and a mural along the walls of the stages of life. The whole place was so serene and reminded me a lot (understandably) of the Hindu temples I have been to. However, there was a special exhibit of naturally formed, beautiful rocks with names given to them that I didn't really understand. The temple was decked out in colorful Buddhist flags and flowers to celebrate Buddha's name day tomorrow.

The last stop of the day was a memorial on the famous street where the monk Thich Quáng Đức burned alive in 1963. The statue of him burning was carved wonderfully and had an interesting mural behind, but again, done with a very anti-American sentiment. With all out planned activities done, I got some mochi ice cream (it was not good) and then headed to a seafood place for dinner. We got to see al the animals before they were served on a platter, which was an interesting and TASTY experience.

On another note, the monsoon rains have kind of started. The city in the soft rain has such a pretty look... I hope I can get a picture that accurately shows it.

Vamos a la Playa

Happy Sunday! It was so beautiful outside and the perfect day to spend outside. We got started early this morning and took the bus to the beachside Vung Tau City. We hiked up 847 steps to a 105 ft tall statue of Jesus that presides over the town. Oh my god it was so hot! I don’t think I’ve sweat more in my life than today… between the heat and the hike, we were dripping. Some people waited in the furnace that was inside Jesus to see the amazing view from his head, but I was in no mood to spend an hour in that 5 story spiral staircase. The view was fantastic: the East Sea on one side, the city on the other. Plus, there were some beautiful tropical trees and alabaster, cherubic statues along the staircase.

Lunch was at a nearby seafood restaurant—the fried calamari was especially good! I cannot get enough of this food. We spent the rest of the afternoon at the beach. The water was very comfortably warm and the sand was very light, fine, and boiling hot. One odd thing was that the Vietnamese in the sea enjoyed throwing the muddy sand at each other. Not for me. I also walked along the beach and collected some seashells. Seeing all the small crabs scuttling into their tiny holes reminded me a lot of India, triggering some great memories of family. Along the beach, there were tons of huge, colorful kites in the shapes of scorpions, cobras, and other things. I wish I would have taken a picture of the scene, but I didn't have my camera on me...

For dinner, a couple of us went out with Julia to a pho place. It was American in portion size and ambience, but Vietnamese in taste and price. I got an amazing bowl of fish pho for about 3 USD. That's ridiculous. I love it. This is probably why I'm so excited for the Ben Thanh Market tomorrow--I want to buy some nice souvenirs.