Saturday, May 10, 2014

A White Sea

As many as half a million South Vietnamese died from 1955 to 1975. Today I saw the graves of a portion of those at a martyr's cemetery in Cu Chi, a district rendered a wasteland with bombs, napalm, and agent orange by the American forces. I've been to soldiers' cemeteries before in the US, but this was different knowing that we were the cause of this loss of life. It's chilling to view the pristine and orderly grid of graves melt into just a pattern of red and white in the distance. In school, we don't put that much emphasis on the Vietnam War... I felt as if suddenly and at once recognized the extent of havoc caused to both sides in the name of ideology. I felt so deeply sad.

We spent the majority of the day at the Cu Chi tunnels, touring the intricate systems of underground bunkers built by the Viet Cong. It was about a 2.5 hour bus ride out of the city, and the view was beautiful (especially the farm lands--so green). When we arrived, they sat us down to watch a movie about the citizen's of Cu Chi's part in fending off the "devil" Americans. It was disturbing to see the intense hate and propaganda built into the film paired with cheerful music and the always smiling faces of Vietnamese diggers and soldiers. The tunnels themselves were so dark and tiny--they have been expanded for Western tourists! The traps and oppressing earth walls made me so aware of how terrifying it would have been during the war for tunnel rats. Plus there were some fun creatures like snakes, bats, and spiders down there... Anyway, we ate lunch on a dock on the river. What a view. Even with the terrible atrocities that have occurred in this country, it has to be one of the most beautiful places I've been.
The view of the Saigon River from our boat-restaurant

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